We continue the series of descriptions of folk costumes taken from the book, now out of print, Il Costume popolare in Italia, by Emma Calderini, published by Sperling & Kupfer, Milano. In this issue, we highlight two costumes from the region of Trentino – Alto Adige, formerly known as Venezia Tridentina.
Peasant from Merano. Short leather pants, with a light-colored piping. Shirt of common cloth, partially covered by suspenders of green fabric (see detail above), worn over a waistcoat of bright red wool. The short jacket is of heavy wool with wide lapels of bright red wool. Wide belt of brown leather, the embroidery for which is done with an unraveled rib of a peacock’s feather. Wide-brimmed hat of green felt, edged with pleated silk ribbon. Knit stockings. Shoes of embroidered brown leather.
Woman of Castel Tesino in holiday costume. Linen blouse with simple collar of crocheted lace. Velvet vest with chenille embroidery of gold, silver, and other colors. Over this, a short jacket of black wool. Shawl of damask silk. Very full black wool skirt with small pleats, with a ruffle of red wool (yellow for mourning). The smooth rectangular apron is of woolen cloth, garnished and embroidered with felt appliqués, chain stitch and chenille embroidery. White knit stockings. Black leather flats. The hair, parted on the forehead, is gathered on the top of the head tied with ribbons, or in braids, which are wound at the nape of the neck and fastened with a crown of silver pins. In this case, the hair is adorned with a sort of “halo” of starched, gathered and pleated black lace, which is attached with a ribbon knotted at the nape of the neck. Gold enameled earrings. Around the neck, a delicate gold chain with a pendant similar to the earrings, and several garnet strands tied with wide brocade ribbons that fall down the back to the waist.
Truffles are the things, I think, that illustrate more than most how much Italians love their food. I had never really heard of them before I came to live in Italy. Then I only ate them when some one else was paying.
IFAFA Member Vima deMarchi Micheli, who has demonstrated and exhibited her beautiful lace creations at several IFAFA Conferences, has published a book entitled Italian Needlework Treasures. It is a guide for travelers interested in finding needlework in Italy, including embroiderers, lace-makers, collectors, antique dealers, and costume designers. The 146-page book contains over 84 colored photographs and 25 black and white photographs. The cost of the book is:
My grandfather made homemade wine, and so did many Italian immigrants who came to the United States. It was a great tradition, and many people will tell you great stories about the annual fall event.
Shirt of homespun cloth decorated on the chest with pintucks and embroidery with sleeves gathered at the wrist and closed with a small button. Double-breasted vest of silk with golden metal buttons. Short fitted jacket, of black woolen cloth, decorated with ribbons, cording, abd embroidery. Close-fitting woolen pants. White knit stockings, tied with red ribbons. Shoes of natural leather with appliqués of colored leather and openwork embroidery.
Blouse of homespun cloth with wide sleeves, quilted horizontally and vertically. Above a first skirt of white cotton, she wears another of deep blue woolen cloth, bordered at the bottom with stripes of vibrant colors. Yet on top of this, another full skirt of homemade cloth or wool with vertical lines, gathered at the waist. Above this could go an apron of cotton or silk, with lines or flowers. The very rigid vest, high in the front, is of embroidered silk held up with suspenders. Flowered shawl, adorned with fringe. Head scarf/covering in printed silk.