We continue the series of descriptions of folk costumes taken from the book, now out of print, Il Costume popolare in Italia, by Emma Calderini, published by Sperling & Kupfer, Milano. In this issue, we highlight two costumes from the region of Trentino – Alto Adige, formerly known as Venezia Tridentina.
Peasant from Merano. Short leather pants, with a light-colored piping. Shirt of common cloth, partially covered by suspenders of green fabric (see detail above), worn over a waistcoat of bright red wool. The short jacket is of heavy wool with wide lapels of bright red wool. Wide belt of brown leather, the embroidery for which is done with an unraveled rib of a peacock’s feather. Wide-brimmed hat of green felt, edged with pleated silk ribbon. Knit stockings. Shoes of embroidered brown leather.
Woman of Castel Tesino in holiday costume. Linen blouse with simple collar of crocheted lace. Velvet vest with chenille embroidery of gold, silver, and other colors. Over this, a short jacket of black wool. Shawl of damask silk. Very full black wool skirt with small pleats, with a ruffle of red wool (yellow for mourning). The smooth rectangular apron is of woolen cloth, garnished and embroidered with felt appliqués, chain stitch and chenille embroidery. White knit stockings. Black leather flats. The hair, parted on the forehead, is gathered on the top of the head tied with ribbons, or in braids, which are wound at the nape of the neck and fastened with a crown of silver pins. In this case, the hair is adorned with a sort of “halo” of starched, gathered and pleated black lace, which is attached with a ribbon knotted at the nape of the neck. Gold enameled earrings. Around the neck, a delicate gold chain with a pendant similar to the earrings, and several garnet strands tied with wide brocade ribbons that fall down the back to the waist.